Glossary of Hat(A-C)帽子术语A-C

GlossaryofHatA

AGAL(ahgaul)ThethickcordsofwoolwhichholdtheKAFFIYEH,theclotheheaddressofthedesertpeople,inplace.

ALPINE-Sporthatofsoftfeltortweed.Thecrownslantsupwardtoalengthwisecrease.Thenarrowbrimisrolledupatthebackandturneddowninfront.Brushorfeathertrimintheheadband.AdaptedfromhatswornbypeopleintheSwissAlps.AlsoTYROLEANHAT.

ANNIEHALL(Late1970’s)Inthemovie"AnnieHall,"theactressDianeKeatonpopularizedafashionconsistingofadroopinghat,longvest,widetie,baggypantsandaman’sshirt.

ARCTICCAP-Fabriccrowninsulatedwithgoosedown.Moutonlambstormflapsturndowntoprotectneck,earsandforehead.

ATEFSeeEGYPTIANCROWN

ATTIFET(Mid16c.)Frenchheaddressconsistingofhairrolledoverpads.Wornwithheart-shapedcap.AlsoARCELET,MARYSTUARTCOIFANDCAP.

AUTOMOBILEBONNET(Early20c.)Largebrimmedhatwornwithalongchiffon,netortullescarfthatenvelopedthefaceandhatandtiedunderthechin.Worntoprotectthewearerwhileridinginthenewopenautomobilesoverdustyroads.

GlossaryofHatB

BABUSHKA(bahbooshka)Russianwordforgrandmother,Atriangularshapedheadshapedheadscarfwornovertheheadandtiedunderthechin.

BABYSTUARTCAP-Closefitting,shirredlaceinfant’scap.Fromthe17c.portraitoftheinfantStuartprincebyVanDyck.

BALMORAL(balmoral)TheScotchBLUEBONNETofthehighlanders.BluewoolenberetcapwithtopprojectingoveratartanbandofStuartcolors,checkereddesign.In1850,QueenVictoriaandherPrinceConsortmadetheAberdeenshire,ScotlandcastleofBalmoraltheirsummerresidence,TheQueendressedtheprinceintheHighlandcostumeandcreatedafashion.

BANDINOHAT(1930’s)Woman’slarge-brimmedhat.NamedforLucadellaRobbia’s15c.renditionsoftheChristChild.

BARBETTE(late12c.,13c.andearly14c.)Linenchinband,pinnedinpositionontopofthehead.IllustrationshowstheFILLET,astiffenedbandoflinen,woundovertheBARBETTEcoveredwithasmallveil.

BARBE(14to16c.)Alongpieceofverticallypleatedlinen,wornunderthechinandcoveringthechest.Withablackhoodandlongblackveil.Theheaddressofwidowsandmourners.

BARRET-Wide,flatcapwornduringtheMiddleAgesbypriests.Barretofvelvetwithembroideryandfeathersshowninthe15c.and16c.paintingsbyHolbein.

BASEBALLCAP-Goredcapwithvisor.Buttonontop

BASHLYK(Ancient)Round-toppedfeltbonnet,withlappets.

BASQUEBERET(baskbaray)Flat,round,woolenfabriccapwornbyBasquepeasants.Usuallywoveninonepiece

BAVOLET(bavolay)AcapwornbyFrenchpeasantwomen.A19cstylecalledtheCURTAINBONNET,hadabackruffle,calledabavolet,thatshadedtheneck.Inthe16c.,theBAVOLETTEwasapieceoffabricthatwasfoldedandattachedtothecap,withthefoldsprojectingovertheforeheadandhangingdownintheback.

BEANIE(20c.,American)Small,roundskull-cap,cutingorestomakeitfitthehead.AlsoBEANY,DINK,DINKY.SeeCALOT.

BEAVER-Ahatofvariouscrownandbrimshapes.Originally,in14c.,madeofbeaverskin.In16c.,madefromfeltedbeaverfur.In17c.,thetalltophat,madeofsilkinimitationofbeaver.

BEEFEATER-Thenarrow-brimmedhatwornbytheBritishYeomenoftheGuardsandWardersoftheTowerofLondonsincethe16c.Hatconsistsofaflat-topped,medium-highcrowngatheredintoaheadband.

BEEHIVE-High,taperedcrown,Shapedlikeabeehive.Hatusuallyhasanarrowbrim.

BELLBOYorBELLHOP-Asmall,stiffcapinpillboxshape,usuallytrimmedwithbraidorbuttons,sometimeswithachinstrap.Copyofacapwornbyhotelbellboys.

BERET(baray)Acapwitharoundflatcrownofvaryingwidths.Madeoffelt,woolorotherfabric.FormsoftheberethavebeenfoundsinceAncientTimes.In15c.,HALOBERET.AlsoBASQUEBERET,PLUMEDBERET,TAMO’SHANTER,PANCAKEBERET,MONTGOMERYBERET.

BERRETINO(berretteeno)Square,scarletskullcapwithcornerspinchedin.AswornbyCardinalsoftheCatholicChurch.SeeBIRETTA

BETHLEHEMHEADDRESS-Truncated,cone-shapedcap,decoratedwithgoldandsilvercoinsandjewels.Wornwithaveil.AncientMoslemheaddress.Copiedinthe1930’s.AlsoTARBOOSH.
BIBIBONNET(beebeebunneh)Appearedaround1830’sasasmallerversionofthePOKEBONNET.Atfirstitwasfittedclosetothesidesofthehead,laterthebrimflaredupwardandforwardinfront.Inthelate19c.,anysmallfancifulandeleganthatwascalledBIBI.In1956,SallyVictorcameoutwithaBIBIstyle.

BICORNorBICORNE(bycorn)Avariationofthecockedhat,appearingaround1790,andsupplantingtheTRICORNE.ThebrimoftheBICORNEisfoldedupinfrontandback.TheBICORNEbecamethemilitarydresshatoftheBritish,AmericanandFrench.TheWELLINFTONwasaversionthathadtassels.TheNAPOLEONhatwasaBICORNEwithatricolorcockade.

BIGGIN(bigin)(der.Fr.BEGUINE,acapwornbynuns)Acoiflikecap,withtiesunderthechin,16c.and17c.

BIRCAGE-Hatofstiffenedveiling,shapedlikeabirdcage.

BIRETTA(biretah)Since17c.,asquarecapwiththreeorfouruprightprojections,radiatingfromthecentercrown.WornbyRomanCatholicclergy.Developed,since13c.,outofacapformedlikethemodernberet.AlsoBERRETTA,BIRRETTA,BIRETUM,BARRET-CAP,BARETTE,BERET.

BLUEBONNET-Broad,slatcapofdarkbluewool,woveninonepiece.Narrowtartanheadband.Coloredtuftontop.Also

BOATER(Britishterm)Astiff,straight-brimmed,strawhatwithaflatcrownandaribbonband.Introducedabout1864forchildren,thenwornbywomen.Wornbymenfrom1880to1930.

BONGRACE(16c.and17c.)Oblongshaped,stiffmaterialwhichdipsovertheforeheadanddrapesinback,wornoveracoif.

BONNET-Until16c.,anymasculineheadcoveringotherthanahoodwasabonnet(French),cap(English).ScotchmenstillcalltheircapsBONNET.Since19c.,thetermreferstoasoftheadcoveringforwomenthattiesunderthechin.

BOUDOIRCAP(boodwar)Softlyshirredcapwithalaceruffle.In19c.,and20c.,acapworntocoverundressedwomen’shair.

BOURRELET-Originallyatwistedscarforturbanwornonthehelmet.A15c.termforthepaddedrollwornbybothmenandwomenasabaseforaheaddress.

BOWLER(boleer)In1850,WilliamBowlermadeahardfelthat,designedbytheLondonhatter,Lock,forSirWilliamCoke.Itwascreatedtoprotecttheheadwhileridinghorseback.Thehathasalowmelon-shapedcrownandaroundedbrimthatturnsupatthesides.Thehatshapewasadaptedforwomenandchildren,acceptedfortownwearbymenuntilWWII.AlsoBILLYCOCK,DERBY.

BRETONSAILOR(breton)(French,bretonh)Woman’shatwithabrimthatturnsupevenlyallaround.

BROADBRIM-TermisnicknameforQuaker,Friend.SeeQuakerHat.

BUBBLEMelonshaped,pillboxcap.

BULBOUS(16c.,German)BALZO,REBALZO(16c.Italian)Alarge,domeshapedcap.Thishatcompletelycoveredthehair.

BUMPERBRIM-Hatwithatubularshapedbrim.Sizeofbrimandcrownvaries.SeeKRIZIACAPfor1970’sversion

BUSBY(buzbi)Atall,cylindricalfurcapwithregimentalcoloredbaglikeornamenthangingformthetop,overtherightside.Brushontopofcenterfront.Originally15c.cavalryuniformofHungarianHussars.

BUSHHAT-Wide-brimmedman’sfelthat,turnedupbrimatoneside.AlsoSOUTHARFICANSAFARIHAT,CADDIE,CADDY,SLOUCHHAT.

BUTTERFLYHEADDRESS(15c.)VariationoftheHENNIN.Boxlikecap,wiredanddrapedwithsheerveilingsothatitstandsoutlikebutterflywings.

BYCOCKET,BYCOKET(bycocket)Highcrownedhatwithwidebrimthatispeakedinfrontandturnedupinback.MiddleAges,16c.,Italianstudentsin20c.

GlossaryofHatC

CABAS(kahbas)VersionofPHRYGIANBONNETbroughtoutbySallyVictorin1956.

CABRIOLETBONNET(kabreeoleh,kabreeahleh)Large19c.bonnetwithbrim,suggestingshapeoftwowheeledcarriagetop.

CALASH,CALECHE(kalash)Largefoldinghoodsupportedbyhoops,designedtoberaisedorloweredovertheexaggerated18c.

CALOT,CALOTTE(kalot)Small,roundskullcap.AncientGreekorigin.Inmedievaltimes,wornunderhoodorcrown.In17c.,wornunderwigorasnightcapovershavedhead.AlsoZUCHETTO,YARMULKA,SCHOOLBOY’SBEANIEorDINK.

CALPAC(kalpac)Large,blackcapoffeltorsheepskinwornbymeninTurkey.AlsoSHAPKA,COSSACKCAP.

CAMURO(cahmowro)Erminetrimmed,redvelvetcap,largerthanaskullcap,formerlywornbyPopeofRomanCatholicChurch.

CAMPAIGNHAT-Broadbrimmedfeltarmyhatwithfourdentsintopofcrown,WWI.

CANOTIER(kanotyay)Frenchversionofthestrawsailorhat,withstraightbrim,flatcrown.AlsoBOATER.

CAP-Ofancientorigin.Snugfittingheadcovering,usuallywithpartialbrimorvisor.ManyvariationsduringMiddleAgesformen,womenandchildren.ModernversionsasBASEBALL,HUNTING,JOCKEY,SPORTS,BOY’SENGINEER,ARMYFORAGE,etc.

CAPEHAT-Halfhatmadebyattachingfabricorfelttoabicycleclip

CAPELINE(capelin)Hatwithsmallroundcrownandawide,floppybrim.

CAPOTE(kapote)Closefittingbonnetwithrigidbrim,eitherofstraworbonedintoshape.Soft,shirredcrown,ribbonbowstiedunderthechin,Victorian19c.withdeepruffleinback.AlsoPOKEBONNET,FANCHON,SCUTTLEBONNET,SUNBONNET.

CAPUCHE(kapoosh)Long,pointedhoodwornbytheCapuchinmonks.

CAPUCHON(kapyoochin)Medievalpointedhoodedcape,thetopstiffeneddownthecenter.DevelopedintotheCHAPERON.

CAPULET(Kapyoolet)(Fr.capoolay)AdaptationofJulietcap,wornonbackofhead.JulietCapulet,HeroineofShakespeare’splay,"RomeoandJuliet."

CARDINAL’SHAT(from13c.)Redhatwithshort,roundedcrownandbroadflatbrim.Rankwasdesignatedbythenumberoftasselswhichterminatedthecords.

CARTWHEEL-Woman’shatwithverywide,stiffbrimandlowcrown.Usuallyofstraw.

CASQUE(kask)Frenchforhelmet.Ahelmetshapedhat.Illustrationisa1980’sversionofthecasque,coveredwithfeatherpads.

CASTORHAT(kaster)FromFrenchwordforbeaverorrabbit

CATERCAP(kayter)(19c.,17c.)Termforsquare,universitycap.AlsoMORTARBOARD.

CAUBEEN(cawbeen)Irishslangtermforanoldandshabbyhat.

CAUL(kol)(14c.,15c.,16c.)Headdressofhairarrangedateachsideoftheheadinsilkencases.Arrangementcoveredwithnetofsilverorgoldcord,interspacedwithjewelsandbeads.Heldinplacebyagoldenheadbandorcrownfittedovertheupperedgeofthecaul.AlsoGOLDENNETCAUL,RETICULATEDHEADDRESS,CREPINE,CRESTINE,CRESPINETTE.

CAVALIERHAT,CHEVALIERS(17C.)Widebrimmedhat,velvetorbeaver,trimmedwithostrichplumesontheleftsideorback.Usuallyonesideofthebrimiscockedorrolled.Seeninportraitsofaristocratsoftheperiod.Thegentleman’shatasportrayedbytheFlemishpainter,SirAnthonyVanDyck,andtheDutchpainter,FransHals.TheCAVALIERhathadthecrowncircledwithjewelednecklaceoragemencrustedsilband.AlthoughsomePuritansarepicturedwearingtheCavalierhat,theusualPuritanandQuakerhatwasofthesamehighqualitybutwithouttheplumesorornatebandandthebrimwornstraight.

CHADOR-ThetraditionalconcealinggarmentwornbyMoslemWomeninpublicwassemicircular,andwrappedaroundthehead.

CHAPEAU(shapo)Frenchwordforoutdoorheadcovering.Achapeauhasacrownandabrim.

CHAPEAUCLAQUE-SeeGibushat.

CHAPELCAP-Circleortriangleorlace,formerlyplacedontheheadwhenenteringaCatholicChurchforservices.Itwascarriedinpurse.

CHAPLET(chaplit)Circleoffreshflowers,laterfashionedingoldandenamelsinAgeofAntiquity.

CHAPERON(shapahron)(MiddleAgesintoRenaissance)Pointedhood(longpointknownasliripipe)withshortcape.Thehoodfaceopeningwasplacedovertheforeheadasaheadbandandthecapegatheredupandpleatedintheformofafan.Theliripipewastwistedaroundthepleatedcapetoholditinplace.(14c.)Thepetalscallopingordaggedorcastellatededgewasavariation.(15c.)Thiswasgraduallysewnintoplaceasahat.ThechaperonwasmadeupoverastuffedrollorROUNDLET.Theliripipeeventuallyacquiredgreatlengths.

CHARACTERHAT-Late1970’srumpledtweedhatwornbyNewYorkSenatorPatMoynihan.

CHARLOTTECORDAY(sharlotcorday)VersionofMOBwornbyCharlotteCordayduringtheFrenchreignofterror,1793.Tricolorbandandrosettewasthedistinguishingfeature.

CHECHIA(shesheea)BerberskullcaporTASHASHIT.Deepcylindrical,flat-toppedcapoffeltwithatuftortassel.FrenchregimentofZouaves,organizedin1831,adoptedtheredfeltchechia.AlsoFEZ.TARBOOSH.

CHIGNONCAP(shenyon)Alittlecapwornoverthebunorcoilofhairatthebackofthehead.Variousstylesandfabrics.

CHILD’SPUDDING-Hatwithastrongbrim(bumper)thatactsasashockabsorberwhenthechildislearningtowalkandtumbles.

CHOU(shoo,Frenchwordfprcabbage)Rosetteoftulle,lace,velvet,orribbonusedasornamentonhatsinthelate19c.In1938,termusedforasofthatwithcrushedcrown.

CITYFLATCAP-Beret,withsmallbrim,madeofwool,felt,orknittedofblackwoolenyarn.(16c.)SeeSTATUECAP.

CLAFT,KLAFT,HAT(Copticforhood)AncientEgyptianstripedlinenheaddress.AfterNapoleon’sEgyptiancampaignin1798,theFrenchForeignLegionadoptedthecurtainlikeheaddressfordesertwarfare.SeeKLAFTforillustration.

CLOCHE(klosh)(Frenchwordforbell)Softstyleofthe1920’s,fashionedfromahoodofchiffonorhandkerchieffelt.Hatthatcoveredtheheadtotheneckinback;itcametotheeyebrowsinfront.Aflapperage,boyishstyle.

COALSCUTTLEBONNET(Late18c.,early19c.)Bonnetwithflatbackandascoopbrimthatresemblesacoalscuttle.AlsoPOKEBONNET,CAPOTE.

COCKEDHAT-Hatwithlargebrimthatturnedupinvariousways.AlsoBICORNE,TRICORNE,CAVALIER,CONTINENTAL,ANDROSMANKEVENHULLER.

COIF-Men’sandwomen’sclosefittingcapofuncertainorigin.(koif)Varyinginstyleusuallyofsoftcloth(Medieval).Wornbytheclergy,undercrownsofthenobles,underthemetalhelmet.Inthe16c.,wornundercapsortheelaboratewigs.Through19c.,underwigs.

COKE(cook)SeeBowler.

COOLIEHAT-Strawhat,usuallywoveninonepiece,withadownwardslantfromapeakedcrown.HatswornbyChinesecoolies.Astrawhatfashionin1980.Sometimesstyledinfabric.

COONSKINCAP-DanielBoonehat,wornbyAmericanfrontiersmen.Madefromraccoonskins,withthetailhangingdowninback

CORNO(12c.)ThedogesoftheRepublicofVeniceworethetall,conicalducalbonnet.From13c.ontheshapedcapithadthepointrisingfromtheupperback.Wornoverthewhitelinencoif.LastDogeofVenice(1797)wasconqueredbyNapoleon.
COSSACK-AdaptationofcapwornbyRussianCossacks.Usuallyoffurorfelt.Hatwideratthetopthanattheheadsize.Astyleinthe1980’smadeupinPersianlambandfurfabricforwomen.Awinterhatformenwornatananglewithacenteridentation.

COUVRE-CHEF(Norman)Medievalheadcoveringforwomen.Apieceoffabricdrapedovertheheadandtotheshoulders.AlsoCOVERCHIEF,HEADRALL(Anglo-Saxon).

COWBOYHAT-Originallyafelthatwornbycattleherders.The1980’s"urbancowboysandcowgirls"werewearingstrawandfeltversionsofthiswide,rolledbrimhatwithhighcreasedcrown.AlsoSTETSON.

COWLorCAPUCHON(Medieval)Monk’shoodattachedtoacloak.

CRESPINE,CRISPINE(Gothic)AdevelopmentintheRETICULATEDHEADDRESS,consistingofthetightgoldenheadbandtowhichtheCAULSwereattachedonthesides.