Glossary of Hat(D-F)帽子术语D-F

GlossaryofHatD

DEERSTALKER-Sportsman’stweed,orcloth,capwithvisorsinfrontandbackandearflapsoutsideandtiedontop.Crownlinedwithscarletpoplinandreversible.Aswornbydeerhunters.AlsoSHERLOCKHOLMESCAP,FOREANDAFT,DUCKHUNTERS.

DERBY(derbi)(British,darbi)In1888,the12thEarlofDerbyvisitedtheUnitedStateswearingastiff,hard,brownfelthatthathaddome-shapedcrownandanarrow,aslightlycurledbrim.Thissetafashionnamedafterhim.AlsoBILLYCOCK,BOWLER,CLOCKER,COKES.

DISCOHAT(Late1970’s)Asmallhatwornabovetheforeheadandtiltedtooneside,heldonbyanelasticorribbonbandinback.Thediscothequewasapopularplacetoobservefashiontrends.

DOLLHAT-Namegiventosmallhatsinvariousstylesandmaterials.Usuallywornforwardandtiltedabovetherighteye.In18c.England,afeminineversionoftheMACARONI.In1930,ahatdesignedbySchiaparelli.FrankOlivebroughtoutaversionin1979.

DORMEUSE(Frenchfor"sleeper")In1770’s,acapofshirredlawnwornatnight,withplaitedribbon,heldonbyaribbontiedontopofthehead.Fordaytimewear,theDORMEUSEBONNETcameinmanydesigns.

DUCKBILL-Bonnethavingalong,high,curvingvisor.Usuallytiedonwithribbonunderthechin.WornbyMarvelueseofFrenchDirectoirePeriod(1795,deerektwar).AlsoJOCKEYCAP,DIRECTOIREBONNET.

DUTCHCAP-Closefitting,pointedcrown,capwithbrimrollingupandflaringoutatthesides.Dutchwoman’scapoflaceormuslin.AlsoVOLENDAMCAP.

GlossaryofHatE

EGYPTIANCROWN-IllustrationoftheEgyptianHelmetCrown,fromtheportraitbustofQueenNofretete,DynastyXVII,c.1372-1355B.C.About3000B.C.,KingNarmerunitedUpperandLowerEgypt.Hecombinedthetall,pointedATEFcrownofwhitefeltorwoolwiththeREDWICKERCROWN,whenheunitedthetwokingdoms.CrownswereoftendecoratedwiththeURAEUS(arearingviper)andwiththeANKHcrown(asignoflife).

ESCOFFIN(14c.,15c.)Stuffedrollofvariousshapes.Originallyaturbanorheartshapedform,finallythetwo-hornedshapewornoveracaulandwithwimple,orboth.BeganasGOLDENNETCAUL,overacaul,finallytheESCOFFIONwassupplantedbytheHENNINwithveil(15c.)
ETON(eeton)CapwornbyboysatEtonCollege,England.

EUGENIEHAT(ushaynee)TheEMPRESSHATof1859.StyleofEmpressEugenie,wifeofNapoleonIII.Arevivalofthisshapein1931wasworntiltedovertherighteye,andtrimmedwithostrichfeather.StylewornbyPrincessDianain1980.

GlossaryofHatF

FEDORA(fedoera)Men’ssoftfelthatwithbrimandlengthwisecreaseincrown,adoptedbywomen.ThenameFedorawasaftertheheroineofVictorianSardou’sdramapresentedinParisin1882.AlsoTYROLEANHAT,ALPINEHAT,HOMBURG.

FERRONIERE-RenaissanceheaddressofOrientaldesignthathadajewelinmiddleofforehead,suspendedfromafinechainorribbonthatwastiedaroundthehead.Fashionrevivedatvarioustimes.

FEZ-Redorblack,feltcapthatisshapedlikeatruncatedconeandtrimmedwithatassel.Turkishofficialdressfromearly19c.untiloutlawedin1923.StillworninotherpartsofthenearEast.GotitsnamefromFez,FrenchMorocco,wherejuiceofredberry,usedfordye,grewinvicinity.AlsoCHECHIA,TARBOOSH.

FILLET-Abandwornaroundtheheadthatholdsthehairinplace.Intheearly13c.,thefilletwidensintoapillbox,.

FLATCAP-SeeCITYFLATCAP,STATUTECAP.

FONTANGE(FONTAHNZH)Styleoriginatedin1678,whentheelaborateheaddressofDuchessdeFontangewasdisarrangedduringaroyalhunt.Shetiedhercurlsupwithagarterofribbonandlaceandcreatedafashion.ShebecamemistressofLouisXIV.ThishighcurledcoiffurewithribbonloopslaterbecametheBONNETFONTAGE,withalacepeakinfrontandasmallcap.Fashionableuntil1714,whenLadysandwich,whilepresentedattheFrenchCourt,appearedinasimplelowhair-doandstartedanewfashion.InEnglandcalledtheTOWERCAP,COMMADE.

FORAGECAP-Late19c.AmericanArmycap.SeeKEPI,CopyofGermancap.

FRENCHHOOD(16c.)Worninvariousforms.TheFrenchHoodgraduallyreplacedtheGableHood.SmallerversionsoftheFrenchHoodappearedinHolbeinportraits.(LadyLee)

FRONTLET(15C.)TheCALOTTEhadablackvelvetorgold,roundedorV-shapedloopshowingontheforeheadtowhichtheHENNINwasattached.TheFRONTLETenabledthewearertoadjusttheweightoftheHENNINwhichwaswornat40degreeangle.F)