Glossary of Hat(Q-T)帽子术语Q-T

GlossaryofHatQ

QUAKEHAT(17c.)Men’shighquality,broadbrimmedhatoffeltorbeaver,worncockerorrolled.Colorsweregrayorbrown.

QUAKERBONNET-Quakerwomenworeveryhighquality,simplifiedversionsoftheprevailingfashion.Blackhoodreplacedbythebeaverhatof18c.,thenthePOKEBONNETin19c.,inwhichthecrownwasgatherednotpleated.

GlossaryofHatR

RANELAGHMOB(18c.)Aformofmobcapadaptedfromthestylewornbymarketwomen.

RETICULATEDHEADDRESS(14c.,15c.)Styleconsistingofbraidedcoilsofhairwornovereachear,coveredwithCAULSornetsoffinegoldorsilverwirestrungwithjewelsorpearls.LateraCRESPINEorbandwasadded.Manyformsevolved,basedonthepositionofthebraidsorbuns.

ROBINHOODHAT(12c.)TheEnglishheroandoutlaw,RobinHood,wasportrayedwearingtheconicalhoodwithselfbrimthatwasturnedupatthebackandworndowntoapointinfront.Hatwastrimmedwithalongquill.

ROUGHRIDERHAT-KhakifeltsoldierhatofSpanishAmericanWarof1898-99.Crownwascreasedandbrimwascockedononeside.NamedafterColonelTheodoreRoosevelt’stroopofRoughRiders.

ROUNDLET(14c.,15c.)Stuffedrollofvelvet,wornturbanfashionoveraclosefittingcapthatcoveredallthehair.

RUEBBENSorREMBRANDTHAT(17c.)Largefelthatdecoratedwithfeathersorflowers.Hatmadefashionablefromportraitsoftheperiod.SelfportraitbyRubenswithIsabellaBrantisanexampleofDutchcostume,Isabellawearsamannishhatofstrawoveralacecap.

GlossaryofHatS

SAILOR-Flat-crowned,straightbrimmedhat,usuallymadeofstraw.Grosgrainheadbandtrimmedwithflatbowattheside.AlsoBOATER,SENNIT.

SHAKO(shako)Flat-topped,rigid,cylindricalmilitarydresshatwithavisorandtassels,plumesorpompoms.Originallyoffur,laterofleather.AlsoTARBUCKET.

SHERHERDESS(18c.)Shallowcrownedhatwithwidebrimthatdipsinfrontandback.Madeoffinestraw(Leghorn).AlsoCHURCHILLS,GYPSY.

SILKHAT(18c.,19c.)Blackhatofsilkplush,withahigh,cylindricalshapedcrownandastiffrollededgebrim.Asthebeaversupplydecreased,theSILKERbecamepopular.AlsoOPERAHAT,TOPPER,GIBUS.

SKULLCAP-Closefittingcap,wornonthebackofthehead.BEANIE(American),CALOTTE(French),YARMULKES(MaleJew).

SLOUCHCAP-Softfelthatwithbroadflexiblebriminvariousshapings.AlsoCIVILWAROFFICER’SHAT,HUNGARIANHAT,(madepopular,1853,LouisKossuth)GARBO,FEDORA.

SNAPBRIM-Brimturnsdowninfrontandupinback.Madoffelt,straw,orfabric.Worntiltedslightlyovertherighteye.

SNOOD-InMedievaltimes,thesupportthatholdsorcoversthehairwascalledaCAUL.In19c.,thesupportwascalledanet,sometimesSNOOD,andconsistedofanet-likebagatthebackoftheheadthatheldthehairorwig.In1930,Schiaparellidesignedasmallfurtoquetowhichachenillenetwasattachedinbacktoholdthehair(SNOOD).

SOMBRERO(sombrayro)Spanishwordmeaninghat.Thehighcrownkeepstheheadcoolandthebroadbrimprotectsthewearerfromthesunorrain.Thepeon’ssombreroismadofstraw,thegentleman’soffelt.AlsoCOWBOYHAT,TEN-GALLONHAT,AMERICANSTETSON(1870).
SOUTHWESTER(souweeter)Originallywaterproofhatofoiledcanvas.ThenrubberizesbytheMackintoshprocess.Nowthehatisusuallyplasticcoated.Originallywornbysailorsasprotectionagainsttheweather.Thebrimisbroaderinbacktoprotecttheneckinstormyweather.

SPANISTOQUE(Mid16c.)Thecrownoftheberettookonheightwhenwornoverawiredframe.Thebrimwasnarrowandthehathadajeweledbandandfeathers.

STATUECAP-Astatue,passedinEnglandin1571,toencouragethewoolworkers,madewearingthiscapcompulsoryforthe

STOCKINGCAP-Knitcapwithlongtaperingend(liripipr),usuallyfinishedwithapompomortassel.

STOVEPIPEHAT(Late18c.)Hatoffelt,nappedwithbeaver,withtallroundedcrown,androlledsmallbrim.Evolvedintohighsilkhat.

SUGARLOAF(14c.,15c.)Tallhatwithcurvedcrownthatresemblestheloafshapeintowhichrefinedsugarwasmade.

SUNBONNET-Abonnetforwomenandgirlsthathasalargestiffbrimandaflapatthebackforprotectionfromthesun.

GlossaryofHatT

TAJ-PersianandArabicforcrown.Abrimless,tall,coneshapedcapofdistinction.

TAMO’SHANTER-AvariationoftheScottishbonnetnamedafteracharacterinthepoembyRobertBurns.Capwasmadeofheavybrushedwoolwithacentertassel.

TANAGRA-StrawhatwithatallconicalcrownfromIvc.,IIIc.,B.C.Greece.ExamplefromterracottastatuetteofawomanfromBoeotiontownofTanagra.AlsoPETASOS,THOLIA.

TARBOOSH-Arabicforcap.Brimlessfeltorclothskullcap,wornbybothmenandwomenoftheMohammedanfaith.Usually,red,sometimeshasascarfdrapedarounditorcoveredwithaveil.LargerthanaFEZ.

TASHASHIT(berber)SeeCHECHIA.

THERESE(Late16c.)Largehoodofgauzeoveraframeofwireorwhalebone.AlsoCALASH.

TIARA(teeara)Greekorigin,crown.Woman’scrown-likeheaddressofjewels.AlsoancientPersian,Assyrianheadcovering

TOONGABBIE(1960)Awashabletowelinghat,madofcottonterrycloth.

TOPHAT-Wornforformaloccasionswithtailcoat.Tallcylindricalcrowninvariousheights.Late19c.,changedfrombeavertosilkhat.AlsoTOPPER,SILKER.

TOPEE,TOPI-Hindu,hatworninIndiaandothertropicalcountriesasprotectionfromthesun.SeePITHHELMET.

TOQUE(toke)smallbrimlesshatorcapfullcrownanddrapedofdecoratedwithpuffs,lace.Canbedecoratedwithfeathersorveiling.Formerlya16c.smallhat,fullcrown,feather.Someversionshaveasmallbrim.QueenMaryofEngland(20c.)favoredthisstyle.AttheinaugurationofPresidentReaganin1981,NancyReaganworeared,braidedtoquethatmatchedhercoat.

TOREADORHAT-Bicorneshape,setcrosswiseonthehead.

TRICORNE-Threecorneredhatwithupturnedwidebrim.AstheCavalierhatgrewlargerandthebrimbegantodroop,fashionledto"cocking"thebrimupononeside.Lasthalfof17c.,thehatwascockedonthreesides,thusbecomingtheTRICORNE.

TRUNCATEDTIARA-AncientBabylonianandAssyrianhatofwoolorfeltwithshortlappets.

TUDORBERET,RENAISSANCEBERET-From1539paintingofHenryVIIIportraitbyHolbein.Hatofvelvetwithjewelandfeather.
TUQUE(tuke)Winterknittedhat,taperedandclosedatbothend.Wornwithoneendtuckedintotheother.SeenatCanadianwintersportingevents.

TURBAN-AncientOrientalheaddress,consistingoflongpiecesofclothrolledandformedoveracap.Periodicallythefashionisrevivedinvariousforms,especiallywhenEuropeancultureisexposedtotheOrient.TheMoorsinSpain,thereturningCrusadersin11-13c.,thecaptureofConstantinoplein1453,allbroughtEasterninfluenceincostumeandhairstyles.TheNapoleniccampaigninEgyptbroughtthisinfluencetoEurope(Empirefashion)inearly19c.Theillustrationisofan1931FrenchturbanexecutedbyMr.Alexander.Early20c.,fashionwasinfluencedbyPaulPoiret’sfascinationwithcostumesandfabricsofEasternstyles.Throughoutthe20c.,variousstylesoftheturbanhavebeenpresented.

TUTULUS-Etruscan(700-300B.C.)Braidedhairstyleofwomenevolvedintoconicalshapedcap,aswornbypeasantsandsoldiers.