Glossary of Hat(L-P)帽子术语L-P

GlossaryofHatL

LEGHORN(leghornorlegen)FinelyplaitedstrawhatexportedfromLaverne,Italy.

LIBERTYCAP-Closefitting,redwoolencapwithelongatedcrownonwhichthetipfoldsover.Stylecalled"Elbonnetrouge,"inspiredbyFrenchRevolutionists(1792-3).AlsostyleofPHRYGIANBONNET.

LIRIPIPE(liraIpipe)Styleevolvedfromthelongpointontheconicalhoodwithfacehole(12c.).ThispeakwaslaterwrappedaroundtheheadtoformturbanedCHAPERONin14c.

GlossaryofHatM

MACARONI-Smalltricornwornperchedaboveahighwig.StyleadoptedbyfashionextremistsoftheMacaroniClub(London,1760),whowereItalian-traveledyoungmen.Thetermevolvedfromthe17c.Italiancommonpeoplehabitofcallingthecourtdwarfsbythenameoftheirfavoritefood,suchasmacaroni.

MANTILLA(manteeya,mantila)French18c.ChantillylacereplacedMoorishheadscarf,blackorwhite(blonde).Shawlike19c.nationalSpanishorMexicanheaddressoflacewornwithahighcomb.

MANTLE(MiddleAges)Woman’sheadcoveringinanyCatholicreligiousassembly.EvolvedintoHEADRAIL,HEADTIRE,WIMPLE.AlsoPALLA.Until12c.

MARIESTUARTCOIFSANDCAPS-SmallwiredFRENCHHOODthatdipsinfronttogiveaheart-shapedeffect.FromMaryStuart,QueenofScots(1542-87),whowaseducatedinFrance.

MATADORHAT(AlsoBULLFIGHTERHAT)Shapeisacopyofabull’sheadwithshortstubbyhorns.Broaddecoratedpieceoncrownrepresentsbull’seye(AncientCretansymbol).

MERRYWIDOWHAT(Early20c.)Fashionednamedforopereta"MerryWidow"byFranzLehar.Largehatwithwidebrim,decoratedwith"willow"plumesandflowers.

MILKMAIDHAT(18c.)"Country"fashion,gardenhatwithalowcrownandwidebrim,wornoveralingeriecap.Hattieddownwithribbonunderchin.Fashionoffinestraw,leghornorhorsehair.AlsoBERGERE,SHEPHERDESS,GYPSY,SKIMMER.

MITER,MITRE(myter)ModernheaddressofCatholicchurchdignitaries.Atallconicalcapwithtiesorlappetshanginginback.Caphastwopeaks,whichfoldflatagainsteachother.EvolvedfromAncientEasternmitra.

MOBCAP-Wornbothindoorsandoutdoorsin18c.Lacecap,also,linen,net,lawn.Largeribbonbowincenterofcap.Tookmanyforms,fromasmalllacecaptoatoweringMOB.

MONMOUTH(17C.)Originallymadin"capper’stown"Monmouth,England.Knittedwoolencapwithturnedupband.Stockingcapisthemodernversion.

MONTERO(montaro,montayro)Spanishwordforhuntsmanorhorsemen.Around-crownedcapwithadividedflapwhichcanbeturneduporworndowntoprotecttheneckandears.Appearedinlate15.In17.,worninplaceofawigoverashavedhead,capusuallyofvelvet.EUGENIEWIGwasaknittedmonterocap,sonamedbecausetheywerepresentedtotheEnglishArcticexpeditionof1875byrefugeeEmpressEugenie.Thisformofcapstillwornbyfarmersandhuntsmen.

MONTGOMERYBERET(montgumerI,mongumri)BritishtypeofberetwornbySirBernardL.MontgomeryinWWII.Darkbluefeltwithinsignia.

MORTARBOARD-Consistsofclose-fittingcapwithpointovertheforehead,attachedtosquaretop.Tasselinacademiccolors.
MUSHROOMHAT-Hatwithshallowcrownanddownwardcurvedbrim.Shaperesemblesamushroom.(20c.)

GlossaryofHatN

NEWSBOYCAP-Softfabriccapwithfullcrownandvisorthatsnapstocrown.Capwornbychildrenaround1920,whowerealsonewsboys.AlsoCARNABY,stylerevivedin1970’s.Adaptedforwomen’swearin1980’s.

GlossaryofHatO

OPTIMO-Straw(Panamaorother)hatwithfullcrownthathasaridgeextendingfromfronttoback.

OVERSEASCAP-OlivedrabclothcapwornbysoldiersinWWIIandWWI.A1979fashioninwoolthatincludesacuff.Apopularshapein1981.

GlossaryofHatP

PADRE-Hatwithalowcrownandabroad,straightbrimthathasaslightcurveaouteredge.Adaptedfromthehatsthatpriestsandmissionarieswore.In1978,Adridesignedfeltandstraw.Popularstyleinthe1980’sbothfeltandstraw.AlsoPARSON’SHAT.

PALLA(termfromRomanoccupation)MedievalEuropeanheaddraperythatevolvedfromheadrail.

PANAMA-Handwovenstrawhatfromleavesofthejipijapa(hepihapa)plantthatgrowsinCentralandSouthAmerica.TakenitsnamefromPanamawhereitissold.

PETASOS(petasos,PETASUSpetasus)Earliesthats,offeltorstraw,withbrimsthatcurvedupwardordownward.Introducedintopre-HellenicEuropebyCretans,whohadknowledgeoffeltmaking.Later,partofGreektravelingcostume.Hatcouldbepermittedtohangdownthebackwhennotinusebymeansofathinchinstraporcordsthattiedunderthechin.Manyvariationsdeveloped,anexamplewouldbethewingedhatof(Greek)Hermesor(Roman)Mercury.OtherexamplesarefoundintheIVandIIIB.C.Tanagrastatuettes.

PHRYGIANBONNET(frijIan)Ancient(Oriental)cone-shapedcapwithapointthatfallsforwardifmadeoffeltorwoolencloth,orremainserectifmadeofleather.CapoffreedslavesofAncientRome.Capoflibertyor"leBONNETROUGE"duringFrenchRevolutionin18c.IllustrationshowsScythian-Persianinfluence,lateradaptedbytheGreeks.Thefemale"Liberty"statueshowsthestyle.

PILEUS(pyleeus,Roman,ofPILOSGreek)Aclosefittingcapoffeltorleatherorwool,similartoskullcap.CommontoAncientpeople.DuringtheRenaissance,thecapevolvedintoBIRETTA.

PILGRIMHAT-SeePURITANHAT.

PILLBOX-Smallcapthathasaflatcrownwithstraightsides.InMedievaltimesdevelopedfromaFILLET.Fashionmadepopularin1960’sbyJackieKennedy.AlsoGARIBALDIPILLBOX.

PITHHELMET(19c.)Helmet-shapedhatofEnglisharmyinIndia.MadefrompithoftheIndianspongewoodtree,coveredwithwhitecottonandfacedwithgreencloth.Originallywornintropicalregionsasprotectionfromthesun.wornbypoloplayersinthe20c.HindunameTOPEorTOPI.

PLANTERSHAT-WornbysugarplantersofJamaica.Variousweaves.StyleofhatwornbygolferJ.C.Sneadin1980’s.

POKEBONNET-By1800,coiffureswere"smallerheads,"andbonnetswerereplacingthehugeMOBSandCALASHstyles.Thepokeshapedbonnetwithroundedfrontbrimhadasmallcrown.Thebonnetcameinvariousshapesandfabrics.
PORKPIE(1930’s)Anewshapeinmen’shatshadalowcrownwithtelescopedflattop.Firstshowninfelt,thenstraw.Adaptedforwomen.

POSTILIONHAT(pocetillyon)AlsocalledtheREMBRANDTorREUBENSfromthegreatpaintersofthe17c.Revivalsofthestylein18c.and19c.Thepostridersofearly19c.,travelingcoachesworeahighhatwithtaperingcrown.

PROFILEHAT-Hatthatisworntiltedtoonesidetoshowprofile.

PUGGAREE(pugree)orPUGGREE-Frompagri,EastIndianwordforaturbanorscarfthatiswornasprotectionagainstthesun.Nowthepleatedscarfwornasabandonastraworfelthat.

PURITANHAT-High,flat-crownedfelthatwithwideuncockedbrimandasilverbuckleonaribbonband.CAVALIERandPURITANhats(17c.)hadthesamebasicform,butCAVALIERhatshadostrichplumesandwereworncocked.