Denim,inAmericanusagesincethelate18thcentury,denotesaruggedcottontwilltextile,inwhichtheweftpassesundertwo(twi-"double")ormorewarpfibers,producingthefamiliardiagonalribbingidentifiableonthereverseofthefabric,whichdistinguishesdenimfromcottonduck.Denimwastraditionallycoloredbluewithindigodyetomakeblue"jeans,"though"jean"denotedadifferent,lightercottontextile.In1789GeorgeWashingtontouredaMassachusettsfactoryproducingmachine-wovencottondenim.Inthemid-19thcenturythedurabilityofhempcloth,ofCannabissativafibers,processedasinmakinglinen,temporarilycompetedwithcotton.
Asimilarly-woventraditionalAmericancottontextileisthediagonalwarp-stripedhickorycloththatwasonceassociatedwithrailroadmen’soveralls,inwhichblueorblackcontrastingwithundyedwhitethreadsformthewovenpattern.Hickoryclothwasasruggedashickorytimberandwaswornby"hicks."RecordsofagroupofNewYorkersheadedfortheCaliforniagoldfieldsin1849showthattheytookalongfour"Hickoryshirts"apiece.Hickoryclothlaterfurnishedsome"fatigue"pantaloonsandshirtsintheAmericanCivilWar.
ApopularetymologyoftheworddenimisacontractionofsergedeN頼esinFrance.Sergeweave,withadistinctly-twilleddiagonalrib,isnowmoreusuallyassociatedwithsturdywoollentextiles.