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Sergeisatypeoftwillfabricthathasdiagonallinesorridgesonbothsides,madewithatwo-up,two-downweave.Theworstedvarietyisusedinmakingmilitaryuniforms,suits,greatandtrenchcoats.Itscounterpart,silkserge,isusedforlinings.Frenchsergeisasofter,finervariety.Thewordisalsousedforahighqualitywoolenwoven.
Denimisacottonfabricwithasimilarweave;itsnameisbelievedtobederivedfrom"sergedeN頼es"afterN頼esinFrance.
ThenameisderivedfromFrenchserge,itselffromLatinserica,fromGreekσηρικος(serikos),meaning"silken".Theearlyassociationofsilkserge,Greek,andFranceisshownbythediscoveryinCharlemagne’stombofapieceofsilksergedyedwithByzantinemotifs,evidentlyagiftfromtheByzantineImperialCourtinthe8thor9thcenturyAD.
FromearlySaxontimes,mostEnglishwool("staples")wasexported.IntheearlysixteenthcenturyitwentmainlytoaRoyalmonopolyatCalais(thenanEnglishpossession)andwaswovenintoclothinFranceortheLowCountries.However,withthecaptureofCalaisbytheFrenchon7January1558,Englandbeganexpandingownweavingindustry.ThiswasgreatlyenhancedbytheEuropeanWarsofReligion(EightyYears’War,FrenchWarsofReligion);in1567CalvinistrefugeesfromtheLowCountriesincludedmanyskilledsergeweavers,whileHuguenotrefugeesintheearlyeighteenthcenturyincludedmanysilkandlinenweavers.