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Weavingisanancienttextileartandcraftthatinvolvesplacingtwothreadsoryarnmadeoffibreontoawarpandweftofaloomandturningthemintocloth.Thisclothcanbeplain(inonecolororasimplepattern),oritcanbewovenindecorativeorartisticdesigns,includingtapestries.
Therearemanykindsofweaves,startingwithabasicsinglelayerplainweaveandevolvingintoinfinitelycomplexweavestructures.Manytraditionalweavepatternsarewellknowntoweaversbytheirtraditionalnamessuchasovershotandtwill.
ThemajorityofcommercialfabricsarewovenoncomputercontrolledJacquardlooms.Inthepast,simplerfabricswerewovenondobbyloomsandtheJacquardloomswerereservedformorecomplexpatternsbutascomputercontrolledJacquardloomshavebecomemorepopularitismoreeconomicalformillstoweavealloftheirfabricsonJacquardloomssothatonesetupmaybeusedforalloftheirdesigns.
Thereareavarietyofloomstylesforhandweavingandtapestry.Intapestry,theimageiscreatedbyonlyplacingweftincertainareas,ratherthanintheweavestructureitself.
Fabricinwhichthewarpand/orweftistie-dyedbeforeweavingiscalledikat.Fabricdecoratedusingawaxresistmethodiscalledbatik.
TherearesomeindicationsthatweavingwasalreadyknowninthePalaeolithic.AnindistincttextileimpressionhasbeenfoundatPavlov,Moravia.NeolithictextilesarewellknownfromfindsinpiledwellingsinSwitzerland.Theyaremadeofflaxortreebast,woolhasonlybeenattestedsincetheBronzeAge.Plainweavesandtabbiespredominate.
EnslavedwomenworkedasweaversduringtheSumerianEra.Theywouldwashwoolfibersinhotwaterandwood-ashsoapandthendrythem.Next,theywouldbeatoutthedirtandcardthewool.Thewoolwasthengraded,bleached,andspunintoathread.Thespinnerswouldpulloutfibersandtwistthemtogether.Thiswasdonebyeitherrollingfibersbetweenpalmsorusingahookedstick.Thethreadwasthenplacedonawoodenorbonespindleandrotatedonaclaywhorlwhichoperatedlikeaflywheel.
Theslaveswouldthenworkinthree-womanteamsonlooms,wheretheystretchedthethreads,afterwhichtheypassedthreadsoverandundereachotheratperpendicularangles.Theclothwasthentakentoafuller.
WeavingwasnotallowedbytheBritishinColonialAmerica.ColonistsweresupposedtosendunfinishedgoodslikecottonandflaxtoBritainandbuyfinishedclothbackfromEngland.Nonetheless,manypeoplewoveclothinColonialAmerica.
InColonialtimesthecolonistsmostlyusedcottonandflaxforweavingbecausetheEnglishwouldnotsendthemsheeporwool.Theycouldgetonecottoncropeachfall.Flaxwasharvestedinthesummer.
Inpreparingwoolforweaving,colonistswouldfirstshearthesheepwithspringbackclippers.Thiswasdonewhilekeepingthesheep’sfeetfromtouchinganythingsoitwouldnottrytobreakfree.Theywouldtrytocutthewooloffthesheepinonebigchunkbecausethatwaytheywouldgetlongfibers.Sheep-shearingwasdoneinthespringsothatthefleecewouldregrowintimeforthewinter.
Aftershearing,woolwouldbewashedinhotwatertogetoutthedirtandgrease(lanolin),thencarded,atwhichpointitwouldbereadyforspinningintoyarn.
Acardisasetoftwobrushesrubbedagainsteachotherwiththefibreinthemiddle.Theprocessofcardinglinesupallthefibresinthesamedirection,makingthewoolorcottonreadyforspinning.
Cottonwasharvestedfromlittlestalks.Thecottonbolliswhite,roughlysphericalandfluffy.Itsseedshadtoberemovedbeforecarding,adifficultandtime-consumingprocess.(latera"cottongin"wasinventedwhichtookalotoftheworkoutofseedremoval.)Aftercardingitwouldbereadyforspinning.
Linenismadefromflaxfibre.Toprepareflaxforweaving,thestalkswouldbebeatenwithascutchingtooltocrushthem,andthenpulledthroughahecklingcombtogetitreadyforspinning.Ascutchingtoollookslikeapapercutterbutinsteadofhavingabigknifeithasabluntarm.Ahecklingcombislikeabrushwithmetalbristlesthatyoupullflaxstalksthrough.
Aftertheyspuntheyarn,itwouldbedyedwithberries,bark,flowers,herbsorweeds,oftengatheredbychildren.
Withtheyarnmade,theywouldpreparetheloom.Thestringsonaloomrunintwodirections.Theyarnthatisattachedtotheloomiscalledthewarp,andthewooforweftiswoventhroughit.Thewoofiswrappedaroundtheshuttle,andwovenalternatelyoverandunderthewarpstrings.
AplainweavewaswhatmostpeoplelikedinColonialtimes.Almosteverythingwasplainwoventhen.Sometimesdesignswerewovenintothefabricbutmostlydesignswereaddedafterweaving.Thecolonistswouldusuallyadddesignsbyusingeitherwoodblockprintsorembroidering.